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Loire Valley Chateaux & Wines - Saumur
Where to stay?
Saumur - just opposite the River Loire, this family run site is beautifully maintained with a relaxed upmarket atmosphere.
Day 13
Arrive at Saumur and check in. Spend the evening having a walk around the lakeside at the campsite before enjoying an evening meal on site.
Day 14
Start your day just a few moments south of the campsite and on the other side of the River Loire in the awe-inspiring Abbaye de Fontevraud. The community as a whole is almost 1000 years old, but the buildings date from the twelfth and thirteenth century. Built to house, but to keep seperate, monks, nuns, lepers, repentent prostitutes and the sick, the five complexes were an astounding triumph of Romanesque artchitecture. Fortunately, three of these complexes remain standing today even after being used as a prison right up until 1963. Famous residents include the writer Jean Genet. Be sure to visit the abbey church, the burial place of countless monarchs of which Richard the Lionheart is just one. The cloisters, chapterhouse and refectory are also a must see.
In the afternoon head a little westwards toward the delightful town of Saumur, possibly one of only a few towns in the Loire that is not dominated by its château. However, the château is delightful and its symmetry and witch-towers give the air of fantasy especially in the evening when the lights are turned on. The château contains a couple of museums, but the gem is the Musee du Cheval in the attic. Starting with a horse skeleton, the museum takes you through a journey of bridles, stirrups and saddlery and ends with a stunning Russian sleigh. Complete your visit with a self-guided tour of the towers and dungeons.
Day 15
Heading a few minutes east, you will quickly arrive at the village of Bourgueil home to another of the local appelations, the first of two today. Here are the vineyards of the delightful Bourgueil, mostly long maturing red wines, but including the occasional dry rosés. Top up from the local vignerons before arriving at the stunning Château d'Usse just a few more kilometres east. A picture postcard château with its shimmering white towers and spires amongst an idyllic woodland setting. Look familiar? Charles Perrault was so inspired, that this fairytale château was the basis of his story - Sleeping Beauty. Inside is a display of models depicting the Sleeping Beauty story, which if you have children with you will be a delight for them. If not, you can just simply relax in the wonderful grounds and absorb this surreal setting.
After lunch, head just a few minutes towards Chinon, home to a both a superb château and surrounded by the best vineyards of the Loire Valley. Here, a fortress has existed since the Stone Age with the latest ruins dating from Louis XIV's reign. It was here that the 17 year old peasant girl, who you met on the first leg of this tour, correctly picked out a disguised Charles VII from a crowd of courtiers, got on to one knee and begged to be allowed to lead the French army against the English. To the remaining courtiers' horror, Charles agreed and the rest is history.
Whilst in Chinon, be sure to sample the red wines for which Chinon lends its name. If you are lucky, you may be able to find a few of the very dry whites that also originate from the vineyards of this region. Before returning to your campsite for the night, be sure to stop off in Saumur where the speciality is "methode champenoise" - a wine which can legitimately challenge lesser quality champagnes. A visit to the Caves Co-operative is a must, particuarly for the Veuve Amiot and Gratien-Meyer.
Day 16
The last day of this tour takes you to the bustling city of Angers. This lively city will leave you with a great impression of the region, in particular its château and two stunning tapestries, the "Apocalypse" and "Chant du Monde". Your first stop must be at the château which is surrounded by a moat, made less imposing nowadays by well manicured floral arrangements. The château looks almost impenetrable with its sturdy towers, but once you are inside, the star attraction is the Tapestry of the Apocalypse which at 100m long, is comparable with the more famous Bayeux Tapestry. The tapestry tells the story of the Apocalypse as described in the Bible, however, you will need to brush up on your French as the translations are nowhere near as detailed.
Heading a few minutes away from the château brings you to the Cathedrale St Maurice. The best part will be as you approach and take in the facade, but once inside, you will also be rewarded with the twelfth century stained glass window and fifteenth century rose window illuminating the very large interior. In the afternoon head to the La Doutre, literally meaning the "other side" for something quite modern in terms of its surroundings. The Musee Jean Lurcat et de la Tapisserie Contemporaine which houses the "Le Chant du Mond", a surreal twentieth century tapestry depicting the threat of nuclear war and the holocaust but ending with the joy of life with its interpretation of poetry, champagne, space, fire, water and more. It may overwhelm at first, but listening Jean Lurcat's personal commentary will bring it all into place.
To end your visit to the Loire region, head a few kilometres west of Angers on the north bank of the River Loire and you will find household name white wines such as, Bouchemaine, Savennieres and La Poissonniere. More wines such as the Coteaux du Layon-Villages, Coteaux de Layon and a Cuvee Cyrano. The latter being grown by one of France's most famous exports to Hollywood - Gerard Depardieu. During the growing months, he is likely to be in the fields himself tending to his vines.
Day 17
After a very detailed look into the Loire region, its châteux, wines, towns and villages, it is time to check out from Saumur and return home.