Battlegrounds - tour introduction The Somme instantly brings images of black and white photos and film reel of brave soldiers going "over the top" of their trenches into the fierce oncoming fire in the vain hope of advancing a few yards. The Somme landscape is littered with cemeteries and memorials dedicated to the millions who lost their lives during what is known as the Great War - World War One.
Today, the Somme region is dedicated to the lasting memory of the fallen and with the 100 Year Anniversary fast approaching, now is the time to visit and see with your own eyes the very landscape in which so much was lost.
The Somme however, also contains some of nature's best work with large nature reserves, wild coastlines, picturesque harbours and serene bays. Centuries old towns and villages dot the landscape and many church and cathedral towers can be seen from miles around including the world's largest, the Cathedral Notre Dame at Amiens.
Continuing the tour southwards into the Normandy region, gives you the opportunity to wander amongst the landscape of what is arguably a defining moment of the 20th century - the D-Day landings. The 6th June 1944 saw the Allies of Great Britain, Canada, the United States and many other countries land on these very beaches to rid Europe of the Nazi regime. With intense fighting against almost impossible odds, soldiers from across the world took a foothold on these beaches and slowly advanced through the countryside, fighting for every inch of land.
The Normandy region is full of memorials, cemeteries, museums and monuments dedicated to the brave soldiers who came to liberate France, and ultimately Europe just 60 years ago. Normandy however, has so much more to offer. It is home to famous ciders and liquors, historical tapestries, stunning cathedrals, fantastic coastlines, wonderful fishing villages and seaside resorts and produces one of the world's most famous cheeses. Stay 1. Picardy – recommend 5 days Local Map of Picardy area highlighting nearby battlegrounds, memorials, monuments, towns and villages described below.
Spend 5 days at the southern edge of the Cote d'Opale in the quaint seaside town of St Valery-sur-Somme and begin with a stroll through the delightful harbour side alongside the River Somme. Have lunch in the narrow Rue de la Ferte with its cafes and restaurants. Try the local Ficelle Picarde (ham and mushrooms) before heading to the Chemin de Fer de la Baie de Somme for a steam train journey around the wonderful Somme Estuary. Enjoy a few hours at the seaside resort of Le Crotoy before jumping on the train for the return journey back to St Valery. In the evening, head out to some more seaside resorts of Cayeaux-sur-Mer, Eu, or Le Treport for a wonderful seafood platter.
Stay 2. Eastern Normandy – recommend 3 days
Local Map of Eastern Normandy highlighting nearby battlegrounds, memorials, monuments, towns and villages described below.
Spending a few days in this part of Normandy gives you a base to explore some of France's finest secrets as well as paying tribute to the heroes of that tumultuous event - D-Day. Firstly, take in the starting point for D-Day with a visit to Pegasus Bridge and have a coffee in the Cafe Gondree, the first building liberated by the Allies. Chances are you will be served by Madame Gondree herself, daughter of Monsieur and Madame Gondree, the first French citizens freed by British forces. Across the road is the original Pegasus Bridge, called so in honour of the British 6th Airborne Division who on the night of the 5th/6th June 1944, after flying gliders into nearby fields and just 164 metres from the bridge, alighted and after surprising the Germans, took the bridge in just 20 minutes. The first success of a very eventful day. As you walk across the bridge, notice the bullet holes where the first soldier Lieutenant Den Brotheridge gave his life on this day and at the end, climb into a Horsa Glider to see how these gliders flew so well, with so little equipment.
For pure indulgence and for a glimpse into modern day Normandy, a visit to Deauville is a must. With names such as Ralph Lauren or Louis Vitton, high quality restaurants and a stunning casino and promenade, Deauville is a town to live the high life. In September, Deauville becomes the "Cannes of the North" with its American Film Festival. Recent attendees have included Harrison Ford and Tom Hanks and the festival is taken very seriously by the movie industry. Also, the Hippodrome is one of France's premier horse racing venues and is often the setting for France's most prestigious racing events.
Whilst in Deauville, make sure you hop across the river to its sister town of Trouville, the perfect antidote to all that high living, or better still head a little further east to the gorgeous Honfleur - an artist's paradise. This small fishing village has inspired the likes of Gustave Courbet, Johan Jongkind and Claude Monet. Famous Honfleurais include Alphonse Allais, writer and humorist, Eugene Boudin, painter, Christopher Rocancourt, impostor and con artist and finally possibly its most famous resident Erik Satie, musician.
Stay 3. Central Normandy – recommend 3 days
Local Map of Central Normandy highlighting nearby battlegrounds, memorials, monuments, towns and villages described below.
To get a feel for the region, head towards Courseulles-sur-Mer, central to the Canadian landing beaches (Juno Beach) and take lunch amongst the many seaside cafes and restaurants. After lunch, have a walk across the seafront and notice how little cover there is between the sea and the town and imagine the soldiers alighting from their landing craft into direct fire from the enemy.
For a very full day, head a little further west and see how difficult the Americans task was in trying to land at Omaha Beach. Of the 5 beaches (Juno, Gold, Sword, Omaha and Utah), Omaha Beach proved the most deadly and almost failed. Trapped between high cliffs and the sea, the American Rangers faced impossible odds against stiff German resistance. This is nowhere more clearly illustrated than at Pointe du Hoc, where the cliff juts out into the sea and the landscape is completely covered in bomb craters. The whole success of D-Day rested with the success of this beach landing and fortunately, by the end of the 6th June, the Americans had a very slim, but crucial grip on this beach.
Stay 4. Western Normandy – recommend 3 days
Local Map of Western Normandy highlighting nearby battlegrounds, memorials, monuments, towns and villages described below.
To complete your tour of the major battlefields of northern France, you must visit the small village of Sainte-Mère-Église. It was here that the 82nd American Airborne Division parachuted into the area and where the unfortunate Private John Steel was caught on the church steeple, only to watch the events unfold beneath him, as portayed in the film "The Longest Day". Make sure you visit the Airborne Museum located opposite the church where a dummy paratrooper still hangs from the belfry today.
In contrast, the sombre German cemetery at La Cambe just south Sainte-Mère-Église is a must for D-Day visitors. With the hugely difficult task of honouring the dead without any form of ceremony reminds visitors that many more Germans died during the Battle of Normandy than the Allies. Going further back into history, no visit to western Normandy is complete without crossing the tidal causeway and wandering the old streets of Mont St Michel. Possibly one of the most iconic images of medieval France. Visiting the Benedictine Monastery is a must as are a wander though the old streets, gardens and cloisters.
Just up the road from the campsite is the seaside resort of Granville. From here, jump onto a ferry and spend a few hours back in Britain, not the mainland though, this will be the Channel Islands where you will see usual British life, but with a distinct Gallic touch. Remember that the Channel Islands are "tax free". For some more retail therapy, head south to Rennes, the commercial heart of neighbouring Brittany where you can shop for all of your essentials before returning to the UK.